Linen Clothing

If you are a man who is in the market for a new look, the most comfortable look to come in for a while involves the classic and deliciously relaxed linen pants! Linen pants are a great way to exactly as sharp or as laid back as you like, and though they first got their recent notice as proper attire for beach weddings, they are making a real splash in environments as various as the boardroom to the gym. Whether you are looking to make a statement or you are simply tired of stodgy cotton, take a look at what these comfortable garments have to offer.

Linen is a material that people have been wearing for thousands of years, and it is no wonder! It's natural, feels wonderful against the skin and depending on the weave can keep you warm or cool. The well-dressed ancient Egyptian man would never consider going out without a properly folded and immaculately white linen kilt, and you shouldn't call your wardrobe complete without a few pairs of linen pants, either!

Linen dress pants can be pressed to a razor sharp crease while never loosing their extremely comfortable quality and they are formal enough for the most conservative office. Look for a classic fit pair of linen pants for a more casual style, with a straight leg, and you'll be ready for anything.


This still doesn't mean that your linen pants can't be casual, slouch-around-the-house wear, either. Look for loose fit, drawstring linen pants when you just want to spend a Saturday sitting around the house, ordering pizza and watching movies. You'll find that these wide cut pants are ideal for movement and if you can find a pair that is pure linen, you'll be able to work out hard and feel the sweat just wicked away from your body. These pants are great for a light workout or a heavier one, depending on what you are doing.

When thinking about how to take care of your linen pants (you've probably heard horror stories about wrinkles that never go away) just follow the instructions on the label.
If they don't forbid it, you can even hand wash them in a pinch, which is safer than machine wash.
Use a detergent for delicate clothes and spot test to make sure that the color won't run, and avoid bleach entirely unless the pants are white to start with. Wash gently and iron will still a little damp to get the best results. Remember, the more you wash them, the softer they'll get and the less prone to wrinkles they will be.

Take some time to think about this important addition to your wardrobe and make sure that add a few pairs to your general rotation before too much longer.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Essential Details In A Sports Coat Or Blazer

BLAZER OR SPORT COAT? Contrary to popular belief, they're not one and the same. The term blazer covers solid-colored jackets such as blue, black, camel or Masters green. The blazer is one of the most classic and versatile pieces of a man's wardrobe and can be worn with jeans, khakis or gray flannel trousers. It's equipped with brass buttons. Sport coats, or jackets, encompass just about everything else.

A GOOD FIT Few men can afford a custom-made jacket tailored to every inch of their bodies. So it's off the rack we go, and that's OK as long as you use a tailor for alterations. Though jackets are sized from a man's chest, they're built from the shoulders, and that's where a jacket should fit best. (A man's height determines whether he needs a regular, short or long jacket.) The shoulder's fit should be in proportion with your body, with generous armholes that allow you to wrap your arms around a trophy without lifting up the jacket. When buttoned, there should be enough room for a sweater or an extra five pounds.

TO THE TOUCH Fabrics to consider when buying a sport coat are winter, summer or 10 months. The latter is a jacket made from light, yet sturdy, wool in solids or classic menswear patterns suitable to wear 10 months of the year. It's a good buy if you have to wear a jacket now and then. Cashmeres and other wools lend themselves to great patterns--like glenplaid, houndstooth and checks--that are easy to layer with shirts and sweaters. Summer jackets usually are made from fine wool, which is lighter than cotton and is blended with fibers such as linen, silk or nylon.


THE LITTLE THINGS Details like lapel and collar width, pocket and button types define the latest styles. To play it safe, choose lapels with classic widths between three and four inches and with the tip of the lapel reaching about halfway between the collar and the shoulder. Pockets, too, should be kept simple. Vents, the slits on the back of the jacket, are meant for ease of movement. An "American" jacket has a single vent in the middle of the garment. The "British" has one at each hip. A ventless sport coat, that hugs the body, is called a "Continental" jacket. As for buttons: two-and three-button jackets are the norm these days.

THE FINER POINTS Why does one jacket cost $200 and another $3,000? It's the sum of the parts--better fabric, lining and buttons, a more intricate pattern and the amount of work done by hand. A designer's name adds value as well.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Mens Dress Shirts

See How A Simple Men's Shirt Can Enhance Your Look, Personality And Appearance In An Instant

Ask a man this simple question. What can enhance your look, personality and appearance in a matter of moments?

Some may find it difficult to say? The answer is a quality shirt. Shirts can help to reorganize the way you look. A Shirt is comfortable and can be cool, fashionable, elegant and stylish. It symbolizes freedom, comfort and individuality of that concerned person. You can wear them for casual, wedding, dinner, business, travelling, all seasons, and anytime and for any purpose.

While selecting a shirt you need to take notes on fashion, coordination that matches your skin and hair color. Imagine a light haired man with fair colored skin tone, in a pure white shirt. The pure white shirt cannot do a thing to enhance his appearance. Shirts come in different fabrics and textures generally to fit you well as well as being versatile, and more economical too.

Shirts are the easiest way for you to reflect your personal style. They are not only for style, but also it is a cover to partly safeguard and protect your skin from the hot sun, dust and cold. Plenty of fabrics like cotton, poplin, linen and wool in different textures, and blended varieties are available.

Cotton garments are durable and very comfortable to wear. Some choices like 60%, 80% cotton blended with other fabrics is suitable for some, while 100% cotton is preferred by many. The different types of cotton shirts are Casual Wear cotton shirts, Mens dress shirt, Polo shirt; knitted cotton wears, cotton T shirts etc.

Linen is epitomized as luxury. The coolness, strength and brilliance is most often found in linen compared to cotton. Linen is woven into fabrics. It is durable, strong and resists rotting in wet climates.

There are endless impressive displays of shirt styles and designs to choose from. Versatile styles of men?s shirts remain as the formal shirt casual shirt tailored shirt slim fit shirt, evening , business, cuffed shirt, long sleeve, short sleeve and summer shirt. Thousands of stripes, patterns, colors, and

a wide variety of crisp white shirt fabrics are also available.

Choose double cuffs or button cuffs. Renowned designers never miss to add this type to their catalog. For grand occasions wear a double cuff shirt with Cuff links or cuff fabric knots etc. This button cuffed shirt should suit any perfect evening wear.

We all know very well the collar shape is controlled by the neckline. A broader face with a thick neck and tiny collar will look imbalanced. Likewise a shirt with long points may drown a small man with different features. You have to choose your collar, standard collar Cut Away Collar, Button down Collar and wing collars are available.

Some of the world's most renowned and followed brands are said to be The Russell Collection, Patagonia cotton, American Apparel Brand Lion Brand to name a few. These brands have established themselves strongly and you can pick your favorite, without thinking about quality and other particulars.

Benefits Of Online Purchase:

Is it possible to search all the brands and collections in a retail shop? Your shirt purchase is easy with just a click here. Sure, in this world all things are possible! The most inexpensive way to shop for shirts is online. What can you get online? You can avoid stepping into all those stores to find
the shirt of your taste, plus you can save time and escape from roaming tirelessly. Not only that, when compared to the traditional shopping system the price will be cheaper, because online shoppers do not include show room maintenance charges, extra advertisement charges etc.

Moreover large volumes of versatile fabrics, styles, designs, colors and sizes can be viewed by sitting in your own living room, and can get clarified immediately by email or over the phone to make your order. The online purchase is safer for money handling. You need not go to the bank to draw out your money. You can buy with your Master, Visa, Discover, American Express etc, Debit cards are also accepted. So why delay? Start browsing, to select the right shirt and enjoy the benefits.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

How To Wear A Double Breasted Suit

The return of the much-hyped original 1980’s power suit is slated for this fall season. Most of the major designers of men’s apparels, ranging from Armani, Zegna and Tom Ford, featured their double-breasted suit in their collections during the recent NY fashion week. While what may seem, at first, the same piece as that of the 80’s power suit, many major differences, in abundant measure, can be noted in this latest incarnation of the double-breasted suit which makes it a more trendy piece of clothing.

The double-breasted suit dates back to a time much earlier than the 1980’s. It is remembered as a Reagan era suit which one would wear when he meant business. The main point is that these suits were cut the 80’s way as it featured wider lapels, huge shoulder padding, low button stances, triple-pleated trousers and a high rise. Slim and trim, tailored silhouette forms today’s modern double-breasted suit’s best design. In simple words, there is a huge difference between the 1980’s version and today’s.

Darker colors are always the way to go. This is one fact that hasn’t changed all through the years when it comes to double-breasted suits. A darker suit matches almost everybody’s skin tone and also conveys the expression of authority. Almost every CEO owns a closet full of dark suits. Choose a suit in either a dark black charcoal or a navy blue color. Soft and subtle patterns go well with double-breasted suits as they don’t necessarily require help from any type of bold fabrics and also manage to attract enough attention.

Double-breasted suits can be kept buttoned which in turn will give you a slim look. Consider wearing a tie along with the suit even though it would seem a little stuffy. But, then again, this is another reason why the double-breasted suits became the power suit of the 1980’s and 30 years later too, it is still said to be so.


A double-breasted suit has two rows of buttons and the front overlaps sufficiently to allow both flaps to be attached to the opposite row of buttons. Tall and thin gentlemen would benefit greatly from double-breasted suits as these suits would give them a matching appearance to their physique. These suits can however draw attention to the midsection in the case of men of heavy stock. Therefore, careful attention is required and an expert tailor must be employed.

Lapels can be found with a number of options in a variety of styles. The width of the lapels is always considered an important factor with the extremely-narrow lapels of the 1950’s standing in stark contrast to the excessively-wide lapels of the 1970’s. However, lapels of moderate width are considered timeless in the case of classic fashion. Suit lapels also come in two styles in accordance with different widths. The two styles are: notched, which has a wide V-shaped opening where the lapel and collar join; and peaked, which flares out in a sharp point with a very narrow deep V at the joint. Both notched and peaked lapels are equally classic. Although peaked lapels are often found on double-breasted jackets.

The flap-like slits found at the bottom of the jacket which accommodate movement and offer easy access to the trouser pockets are known as vents. Jackets usually have three styles: center, side, and none. Ventless jackets, just as the name implies, have no vents, and are popular on Continental suits. Even though it can lead to wrinkling when the wearer sits down, they provide a sleek look to the back of the jacket. Center-vented jackets, usually very popular on American suits, have only a single slit at the back, allowing the jacket to expand at the bottom when sitting. A side-vented jacket has two vents, one on either side, generally just behind the trouser pockets, to provide easy access.

These are some of the points that need to be taken into consideration before selecting a double-breasted suit

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Topstitching or Edge Stitching On Lapels And Pockets

What is it?
Topstitching is a single or multiple set of lines of stitching showcased on the garment right side, either for decorative or functional purposes. It's found on many types of garments, from sporty to formal, tailored to heirloom. The term is often used interchangeably with edge stitching, though generally topstitching refers to a stitching line about 1/4" from the edge or a style line, such as seaming or pockets. Edge stitching, as its name suggests, is done very close to the edge. Occasionally, both types of stitching are used in a single design area. For example, a collar may be both edge stitched and topstitched. Topstitching helps to hold garment layers in place and keep edges flat, or it may be a means of attachment for a design feature, like a pocket or band. On a collar or lapel edge, the added stitching keeps facings rolled under and gives a structured look.

Thread Tricks
Because topstitching is meant to be seen as a design detail, it's often done with a contrast and/or heavy weight of thread for prominence. Many thread companies make a "topstitching weight" in basic colors, and a sometimes in a variety of fibers, including silk.

Topstitching can also be done using regular sewing-weight thread, either in a matching or contrasting color. It's also possible to put two all-purpose threads through a single needle to make a more visible stitching line.

Stitch Smarts
Most topstitching is sewn with a straight stitch, using a slightly longer length than is used for garment construction. When using topstitching thread, it's imperative to lengthen the stitch to create a good quality stitch.
Topstitching can also be done using a triple straight stitch, where the machine actually stitches backward and forward in the same line, creating a more prominent look.
Decorative machine stitches can be used for topstitching if they seem appropriate to the garment styling.

Thinking Straight
Since topstitching is highly visible, it's important that the stitching lines are perfectly straight. Most machines have a presser foot where the distance from the needle to the foot edge is 1/4", which can be used as a guide.
Some machine brands also offer a 1/4" topstitching foot, with a raised edge guide, either fixed or adjustable.

Twice as Nice
Topstitching can also be done using a twin needle to create two rows of straight stitching on the garment right side, spanned by a zigzag on the underside. The two threads may be the same or differing colors. This technique is often used on knits for hemming.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

How to Choose The Right Suit Which Compliment Your Body Type

In this article we will discuss the parts that make up a man's suit. Although off the rack suits afford you little flexibility in adjusting these parts, the man who goes with a bespoke or made to measure suit has the freedom of choosing the option that best compliment his body. In any case, all men should understand the basics of the suit and its parts so that they buy a garment that accentuates their most positive traits.

Single or Double Breasted

The first and perhaps most noticeable element of the suit is whether it is single or double-breasted. Single-breasted suits have a single row of buttons down the front, and the jacket flaps only overlap enough to permit buttoning. A double-breasted suit has two rows of buttons, and the front overlaps sufficiently to allow both flaps to be attached to the opposite row of buttons. The choice between single- and double-breasted is a matter of personal taste, though the vast majority of American men choose single breasted suits as that this is what is readily available to them; also a lack of familiarity with the double-breasted option may account for the single-breasted suit's dominance. Thin gentlemen, particularly those who are somewhat taller, can benefit greatly from double-breasted suits, as they will give a fuller appearance to the figure; on larger men, double-breasted suits can have a tendency to draw attention to the midsection, so careful attention and an expert tailor should be employed.

Lapels

Lapels come in a variety of styles with a number of options. The lapels' width is perhaps subject to the most variance, with the extremely narrow lapels of the 1950s standing in stark contrast to the excessively wide lapels of the 1970s. As is the case with much of classic fashion, the most timeless lapels are of a moderate width. In addition to different widths, suit lapels come in two styles: notched, which has a wide V-shaped opening where the lapel and collar join; and peaked, which flares out in a sharp point with a very narrow deep V at the join. Notched and peaked lapels are equally classic, though the latter are most commonly found on double-breasted jackets. A peak lapel on a single-breasted jacket is an excellent way to raise its level of formality, but is almost impossible to find on anything but a custom made suit

Waist Buttons

A suit jacket has either one row of buttons or two, depending on whether it is single- or double-breasted. A single-breasted jacket has a single row of buttons, numbering anywhere from one to four, though two and three are the most common. The three-button jacket is the most traditional configuration, taking its cue from English riding jackets; properly worn, it gives the illusion of height. Traditionally, only the middle or second button is fastened when standing, though the top two buttons may be fastened to produce a slightly more formal appearance. Two-button suits are a slightly later innovation, and because they show more of the shirt and tie, can produce a slightly more slimming appearance. Only the top button of a two-button jacket is fastened; with the exception of a jacket with only one button, the bottom button of a single-breasted jacket is never fastened.

Double-breasted jackets most commonly have either four or six buttons on each side - where there are six buttons, only the lower four are for buttoning, though due to the design of the suit, only two will actually be buttoned at any given time. There is also an extra hidden button on the reverse of the outside flap of a double-breasted suit, onto which the inside or "hidden" flap attaches. Contrary to the habits of certain celebrities, a double-breasted jacket is never left unbuttoned when standing, permitting it to flap around wildly; it is always securely buttoned upon standing and remains buttoned until one is again seated. Additionally, while the bottom button of a single-breasted jacket is always left undone, both of the operable buttons on a double-breasted jacket are fastened. As with the gorge of the lapel, the height of the waist buttons can been altered slightly to accentuate or diminish height, but this must be done carefully.


Sleeve Buttons

There are numerous historical reasons for jacket sleeves bearing buttons, from encouraging the use of handkerchiefs to allowing a gentleman to wash his hands without removing his jacket, a traditionally grave social offense in mixed company. Whatever the reason for their arrival on jacket sleeves, they now form an important part of the detail work or trimming of the jacket. Most traditionally, jacket sleeves bear four buttons, though it is not uncommon to find three. Regardless of number, there should be at least as many of them as there are buttons on the waist, and they are always placed within a half-inch or so of the hem. On bespoke suits, and even some of the higher-quality made-to-measure jackets, the sleeve buttons are functional. When the buttons are functional, there is some temptation to leave one button undone in order to draw attention to the feature - and by extension, the quality of the suit - though this is a matter of personal taste.

Jacket Pockets

The most formal are jetted pockets, where the pocket is sewn into the lining of the jacket and only a narrow horizontal opening appears on the side of the jacket. These pockets, being nearly invisible, contribute to a very sleek, polished appearance, and are most frequently found on formal-wear. The next style, the flap pocket, is slightly less formal, though it is perfectly acceptable in all the circumstances where a gentleman is likely to be found in a suit. Flap pockets are made identically to jetted pockets, but include a flap sewn into the top of the pocket, which covers the pocket's opening. These are the most common pockets on suit jackets, and in the very best, are fabricated so that the wearer may tuck the flaps inside, mimicking the jetted pocket. There are also diagonally-cut flap pockets known as hacking pockets, though they are somewhat less common; the hacking pocket is derived from English riding gear, and is most prominent on bespoke suits from English tailors, particularly those traditionally associated with riding clothes. The least formal are patch pockets, which are exactly what the name implies: pockets created by applying a patch to the outside of the jacket. Patch pockets are the most casual option; they are frequently found on summer suits that would otherwise appear overly formal, as well as on sports jackets.

Ticket pocket

Some jackets, particularly bespoke and finer made-to-measure offerings, include a small ticket pocket above one of the side pockets, generally on the same side as the wearer's dominant hand. This pocket is rarely used in modern times, and serves more as an indication of the suit's quality.

Breast Pocket

Moving up the jacket is the breast pocket, which is always open, and into which only one item is ever placed: the handkerchief or pocket square. The reason for this is twofold: First, like the side pockets, any items placed in the breast pocket create lumpy projections which distort the sleek appearance of the suit, and second, the breast pocket and the inside left pocket share the same space in the jacket's lining, meaning that objects in the breast pocket tend to force items in the inside pocket into the wearer's ribs, which is quite uncomfortable.

Vents

Moving on from pockets we find the vents, flap-like slits in the bottom of the jacket which accommodate movement and offer easy access to the trouser pockets. Jackets have three styles: center, side, or none. Ventless jackets, just as the name implies, have no vents, and are popular on Continental suits; they provide a very sleek look to the back of the jacket, though they can lead to wrinkling when the wearer sits down. Center-vented jackets, very popular on American suits, have a single slit at the back, allowing the jacket to expand at the bottom when sitting. Because of its placement, center-vented jackets have a habit of exposing the wearer's posterior, though most seem not to mind, as center vents remain the most popular style. A side-vented jacket has two vents, one on either side, generally just behind the trouser pockets, to provide easy access. Side vents also facilitate sitting more easily, moving as needed to prevent the rumpling of the jacket back, which leads to creasing.

Now that we have an understanding of the parts of a jacket, its time that we learned about proper fit and proportion.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Dressing Appropriate According To Profession

Dressing appropriately in today’s workplace is essential. Your clothes are the first impression you make whether on a job interview, representing your firm to a new client, or making a presentation within your company. But today the simple act of dressing can be confusing. Mistakes can be costly not only to you budget, but to your career.

Industry guidelines
The guidelines which you are about to read tend to be consistent within each profession. Key is to Dress conservatively while interviewing, and, once you get the job, be alert. Each office has a distinct culture and fashion slang with it.

ACADEMIC
Whether the job is dean of students or tenured professor, the academic dress code is the same: Business casual. That means tailored, presentable pieces that are authoritative but still approachable. Geography and, at time, the nature of the school will determine the exact interpretation. A Columbia biology professor situated in uptown New York City is likely to dress differently from her counterpart at the New Hampshire-based Dartmouth. There is the same slogan: "I dress to inspire confidence, to let people know I'm a professional who hasn't just come on the scene."

CONSULTING
A consultant should dress to establish herself as a figure of authority with the company for whom she's consulting. Generally, this means a custom tailored suit. Dressing professionally can serve another key purpose for those giving advice. It helps ensure they'll look worthy of the money the company is shelling out for the outside expertise.

RETAIL
A retail salesperson's appearance should represent the merchandise she is selling and the caliber of her clientele. Someone selling khakis a cotton twill trouser will dress differently from her counterpart in designer sportswear.

SERVICE INDUSTRY
Service positions-hotel managers, restaurants workers-often require a uniform. Otherwise, the rule of thumb is to wear crisp, well-ironed, and presentable clothes that fall into the business casual or business appropriate range, depending on the position.

ADVERTISING
Like many creative media, the dress code in advertising tends to be corporate creative.
For entry-level positions, that means whatever is in fashion at the moment-low-rider pants or ladylike dresses.
Mid level employees take liberties within a corporate casual to business appropriate range; you see the look: a lot of leather and a purple suede shirt worn with three or four long gold necklaces.
Senior executives dress with similar diversity, in everything from designer suit to devil-may-care denim.
Clearly, the more conservative the firm or a particular client -the more conservative the dress

FINANCIAL
While skirt suits, stockings, and high heels were once the norm, investment banking and its financial counterparts have slightly loosened their dress demands in recent years. A pantsuit is fine. Investment bankers and financiers like to present an image of power and also monetary success to their clients, and so a business appropriate look is the key. In New York suits or a look approximating it is common. But location is everything.
In San Francisco; where slacks, a jacket and a sweater or a blouse is common. Nobody seems to be wearing hose or heels. You do see business skirts. If someone has a meeting, the look will be more suit like. But in general people wear a more casual look.


MEDICINE
Some of the policies describe the medical dress code as ‘tasteful and professional’. What it means is no low-end; yes they give an actual number measurement for their dress. They have to wear a white coat at all times. Underneath it are suits or pants or a dress, all tailored to fit perfectly and well ironed.

LAW
While law and banking are considered the last bastions of truly formal business attire, even their staunch guidelines have softened in recent years. In metropolitan regions, a suit is commonplace, and closed-toe shoes and stocking legs are required. These and other particulars -including skirt length, Friday dress, and court room attire are governed by the mandates of each individual firm. If you're too polished, people could perceive you as pandering or condescending. That doesn't advance the ball.

MEDIA
Jobs in the media-television and film production, magazine publishing-generally inspires a creative take on business attire. Translation; Suits with an edge. Associate appropriate attire, down wear business appropriate attire, often with a hip twist.
Editors and assistants tend to follow suit. The magazine dress code tends to be business attire, often with a streak of high style.
It's rare for high style to wander into the hallowed halls of book editors, where the common dress is business casual to business appropriate. The marketing side of book publishing thrives on timeliness and trends, and stylish, business appropriate attire is a common uniform

REAL ESTATE
Clothes that enable your clients to relate to you, “The leather pants, a denim blazer, look like them so they can connect with you.” But as they say, location is everything. In contrast, a real estate agent working in a suburb of Chicago might wear a colorful suit, gold jewelry, and conservative heels.

PUBLIC RELATIONS
You have to satisfy those expectations down to the clothes, which mean suits with a dash of fashion. For those in non-executive PR positions, No matter what level the employee, however, one rule always applies: The nature of the client can sway the dress code. "If you're with a very corporate client, you have to know enough to streamline your look and be a little bit more conservative.”

ARCHITECTURE
The dress code in architecture is similar to that in advertising. No jeans, no sneakers, no T-shirts. Casual but neat, and more often than not, creative!! But when you go to any kind of client meeting, the dress is business attire. Translation: Suits. As with any industry, larger, more formal firms can often have more conservative dress codes.

ACCOUNTING
You are in a position of giving advice, and you get more respect when you dress appropriately. Generally, those in executive accounting positions tend to dress in corporate attire. But for all other accounting titles-book keepers, semi senior accounting firms may be corporate casual while larger firms to dress professionally, aka business appropriate.

INTERNET
The internet has evolved into just another medium, and the dress code is media dress. The styles are slightly edgier, there is more individuality. While anything-goes are still the rule at dot-coms, slacker khakis have begun to be traded in for cutting-edge fashion and the latest techno looks. You see heels, but they're not conservative, pumps- it's a thicker heel, an interesting toe.

For clearer picture of the formal dress appropriate for different industries please have a look at our catalogue by clicking at the following link. http://www.mycustomtailor.com/shops.php?ShopID=1

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